There’s so much to say about Matthieu Barret and his wines that even the most thoughtfully curated Instagram post could never do it justice. My recent visits to his domaine in Cornas have only deepened my admiration for his unconventional approach to winemaking in the Northern Rhône. His wines are not just a reflection of the terroir—they are an extension of Matthieu himself, bursting with energy and character. As he puts it: “I prefer to live, like my wine.” This mantra resonates deeply in both his vineyard practices and his minimal intervention in the cellar, resulting in some of the most dynamic Syrahs I’ve encountered.
Matthieu is a 7th generation vigneron, taking over the family domaine in 1997. Back then, the estate followed fairly traditional practices—oak barrels in the cellar and mechanical intervention in the vineyard. But since then, Matthieu has completely transformed everything. The domaine now practices organic and biodynamic viticulture, and Matthieu has built an entire ecosystem around his vines. The machines have disappeared, replaced by horses and the hard work of hands-on labor in the fields. It’s rare to see such dedication to biodynamics in a region as prestigious as Cornas, where tradition often leans towards oak-heavy, powerful wines. But Matthieu’s commitment to his philosophy runs deep, and the result is nothing short of extraordinary.
Upon entering his cellar, I was struck by the absence of oak barrels, something you expect to see in the Northern Rhône. Instead, Matthieu has opted for concrete vats and clay amphorae, which allow the wines to retain their purity and vibrancy. These amphorae, with their elegant shapes and ancient origins, are a rarity in this region but make all the difference in creating wines that are fresh, complex, and expressive. It’s a complete departure from the traditional, heavy-handed approach to Syrah that often requires years of aging. In Matthieu’s hands, these wines are approachable and alive from the moment they’re bottled.
Tasting through his range of wines was a revelation. His Cornas bottlings, in particular, stood out for their stunning clarity and freshness. Cornas is known for its intense and brooding Syrahs, often requiring years to develop, but Matthieu’s wines defy that notion. They are drinkable right out of the bottle—a quality that’s almost unheard of in this appellation. His Billes Noires Cornas is a standout, offering layers of dark fruit, spice, and a minerality that speaks to the rocky soils of the region.
But Matthieu’s talent isn’t confined to Cornas. I had the chance to explore his Côtes du Rhône rouge and blanc, easily identifiable by their playful “Bear” labels. These wines are joyful and unpretentious but still show the complexity and structure you’d expect from a Rhône wine. His Côte Rôtie and Crozes-Hermitage were equally impressive, each capturing the essence of their appellations while remaining true to Matthieu’s philosophy of minimal intervention.
One of the most exciting discoveries was a wine called No Wines Land. This vineyard, nestled between Cornas and Saint Joseph, lies outside of any official AOP appellation, which allows Matthieu the freedom to experiment without the constraints of regulations. The result is a wine that’s pure, unadulterated Syrah—a true expression of the land, untamed by tradition or expectation. I loved this wine so much that when I ended my trip in Paris, I ordered a bottle of it at a trendy natural wine restaurant called Le Timbre. Sadly, now closed.
As I tasted through his wines, Matthieu’s philosophy became clear: these are wines meant to be enjoyed in their youth, but with a complexity that will keep you coming back for more. If you’ve ever thought of Syrah as strictly a winter wine, Matthieu’s wines will change your mind. With a slight chill, they reveal an entirely different side of Syrah—fresh, vibrant, and utterly drinkable.
My time with Matthieu was a reminder that great wine comes from more than just great grapes. It’s about intention, respect for the land, and a desire to create something that reflects both the earth and the human spirit. Matthieu Barret’s wines are becoming more sought after, and for good reason. They are a rare combination of authenticity, purity, and drinkability, making them some of the most exciting wines I've had from the Rhône. If you have the chance to seek them out, don’t hesitate—they are well worth the effort.
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