My visit to Domaine Larue in Saint-Aubin was an unforgettable moment in my early French wine journey. Though I couldn’t yet speak French conversely, I was fortunate to have a translator with me that day, helping bridge the gap between language and the wines. But even with that barrier, the experience transcended words—the wines spoke with an elegance and clarity that needed no translation.
We tasted through their 2014 vintage, an impressive lineup of both reds and whites. At that stage in my career, I was a big fan of red Burgundies, and I was eager to explore what Domaine Larue had to offer. But what caught me completely by surprise were their premier cru whites from Saint-Aubin. These wines blew my mind and shifted my perspective entirely. The whites showed an astonishing depth and balance, even at such a young age, revealing just how remarkable this underappreciated appellation could be.
Guy Larue, the man behind the wines that day, was incredibly kind and accommodating. He took the time to walk us through each wine, sharing insights and stories that gave life to the glass in front of me. His hospitality made the experience feel intimate and personal, creating a connection not only to the wines but also to the family behind them.
The wines themselves were a revelation. While I had come expecting to be wowed by the reds, it was the Saint-Aubin Premier Crus that left the greatest impression. Murgers des Dents de Chien stood out for its vibrant acidity, precise minerality, and ability to showcase its terroir with striking clarity. Despite being a 2014, the wine was already showing immense potential, with layers of flinty earthiness and a tightly wound structure that promised even greater things with age.
As we moved through the tasting, the whites continued to surprise and delight. Their purity and energy were palpable, driven by the limestone-rich soils of Saint-Aubin. What stood out the most was the balance between power and finesse—the wines had weight and structure, yet remained fresh and lively on the palate. The Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne was another highlight, offering more richness and opulence without losing that signature Saint-Aubin brightness.
Guy’s passion for his craft was evident in every bottle. The care he takes in both the vineyard and the cellar is reflected in the wines, which possess a unique vibrancy and sense of place. Even without fully understanding the language, it was clear that the Larue family’s dedication to their land and to their wines runs deep.
This visit also marked a turning point in my relationship with white Burgundy. Up until that moment, I had always gravitated towards the reds, but the experience at Domaine Larue opened my eyes to the incredible potential of Saint-Aubin’s white crus. These wines, with their flinty minerality and tight structure, had the power to age for decades, yet were accessible and exciting even in their youth.
The wines of Domaine Larue left a lasting impression on me, not just because of their quality, but because they introduced me to a new way of thinking about Burgundy. These wines don't necessarily need to be aged. They are delicious right now. I left Saint-Aubin with a deeper appreciation for the balance between tradition and innovation, and with a new love for the whites of this remarkable region.
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